A pic before I cut and reformed the grip frame.	I laid out a line on the grip to get a visual of what I was after
I cut a section from the bottom of the grip frame and reshaped both front and rear frames to get it to the shape I wanted.	I welded the back strap to the bottom of the front, then welded the section I cut from the middle to the bottom front tip and ground to shape.
I drilled the grip frame and reinstalled the grip alignment pin	I do not like the shape of the loading lever!
I want it to flow even off the bottom front edge, like it should!	A little layout dye, a scribed line, and it's ready to reshape.
That's more like it!	Now to deal with the unfinished trigger guard.
Notice how the trigger guard does flow into the grip frame.	I filed and sanded the trigger guard to the shape I wanted.
I went to the Hardwood Store and picked out some pieces of wood to make grips from.	I found a really nice piece of Curly Maple and a really nice quarter cut piece of Bocote.
As you can see from the pics I used the Bocote for the grips on the Remington.	Once My uncle and I got the Bocote planed down it yielded some spectacular and graphic grain.
I think this will oil up very nice, though the fit of the grips to the cut out in the frame is not as nice I would like it to be.	I am going to have to make up my mind whether to use these or make another set!
I still have finish sanding to do before I can start oiling them, but I'm happy with there shape.	I really like the grain in this wood. I will be using more of it to make grips from in the future.
	The biggest issue that everyone faces when turning a 1858 New Model Army into a short barrel snub nose revolver is what to do to keep the cylinder pin in place. It dawned on me early in this project that a simple spring plunger screw or detent would be a simple solution to this problem. The detent placed in the notched end of the shortened loading lever should hold it in place and keep the cylinder pin from moving. I bought two 6-32 detents, one with a 1.6 lb end force, and another with a 3.5 lb end force. I am certain the 1.6 lb will hold the short loading lever in place, but I may need to switch to the heavier one if the lighter one can not handle the recoil when the gun is fired.
I drilled and tapped the end of the loading lever and installed the 1.6 lb detent.	I placed a punch mark on the end of the cylinder pin centered to the plunger on the detent.
Here you can see the tip of plunger seated in the punch mark on the cylinder pin.	I recommend if you do this mod that you buy the installation bit with the detents. It makes installing them much easier.
To keep the detent plunger from binding on the cylinder pin I ground a slight radius on the bottom leading edge of the pin.	This set up seems to work as planned. I have tried both detents, and they both hold very well.
I laid out and cut the dovetail into the front barrel for the brass blade sight. I filed and fitted the sight, then de-burred all the edges. I am now ready to blue the parts.	I had photos of the sight fitted, and the parts being blued and when I up-loaded them from the camera they were way out of focus. Not sure what happened but I lost the photos non the less.